Kununurra or Bali???????

Day 123

We decided on a game of golf and have arranged to tee off at 7am so that we can beat the heat. We hire a motorised cart and enjoy our game on this rather interesting but dry course with oiled sand scrapes instead of greens. We haven’t played since Kalbarri about 7 weeks ago so not sure what to expect but after 9 holes it was getting hot and we started to get a bit tired of scraping the greens before...and after we had used each one. It was a close match but poor Al ended up buying me a coffee and cake even though he chipped into the hole on the last green after approaching the wrong green and then finding the correct 18th hole. I think he is really looking forward to playing on some real golf courses and we figure that by the time we get home to play at Coolangatta Tweed all the rain will be gone and it will be in perfect condition!! We get back to our CP and enjoy a cooling swim in the pool before lunch. Alan has a massage booked for this afternoon with the therapist coming to our camp (brings her massage table) and doing the massage under our awning. It’s a bit like being in Bali!!! I am going to do the grocery shopping!!! Not a fair deal really when I DID win the golf......never mind I will find a day spa in Darwin I’m sure J

A taste of Kununurra Rum !!!

The Ord River at Sunset

A nice cold glass of Chardy to end the Day

Al tames the Ivanhoe Crossing watched by a local

The Ivanhoe Crossing

Day 122

Took a bike ride into town and the library to do some printing then rode to the Ivanhoe Farm for morning tea. Went back to camp to get the car and then took a drive around some of the Ord River farming areas then to Ivanhoe River crossing which looks pretty deep with fast flowing water over the long causeway. It is quite a famous landmark here as in the wet season it is impassable but we made it across and back a few times for camera shots to the delight of a tour bus of oldies who cheered and applauded us each time. On to the Hoochery where they make Rum of several different alcohol strengths. Al did the tasting and settled on one bottle which we will get to taste when we meet up with our friends Rose and Don Maslen and Carole and Les Dickinson in Katherine next Sunday. Back to camp for a swim in the pool and a relaxing afternoon. Sunset drinks were at our fave cafe, the Pumphouse with lovely views over the surrounding hills and Ord River.

Back in Kununurra

Day 121

Got back to Kununurra quite early and had to wait till we could get into the CP. Went to the Visitor Centre and booked for a sunset Lake Argyle cruise for Wednesday. Checked into CP on our same site we had last week but there are many more vans here now and they are turning people away. Spent the rest of the day cleaning and catching up on news and computer stuff etc. It is very hot here 35 degrees again and we are lucky to have a shady camp site under large trees.

Some of the wildlife and Wildflowers in The Kimberleys

Day 121

Got back to Kununurra quite early and had to wait till we could get into the CP. Went to the Visitor Centre and booked for a sunset Lake Argyle cruise for Wednesday. Checked into CP on our same site we had last week but there are many more vans here now and they are turning people away. Spent the rest of the day cleaning and catching up on news and computer stuff etc. It is very hot here 35 degrees again and we are lucky to have a shady camp site under large trees.

Amazing Purnulu nat park Domes

Day 120
We pack up and leave the campground by 6:30am and drive to the southern end of the park to the airport where there are flights over the bungles. We arrive before the rush and they have a helicopter available straight away. It is $205 for an 18minute flight and while not cheap it will be a fantastic way to see the main Piccaninny Gorge and the sandstone domes which are unique here. We are not disappointed and get an amazing view of the gorge which is only accessible if you do a 3 day hike into it and the views of the banded hills from the air are not to be missed. We arrive back to the helicopter office where there are several people waiting for flights so we were lucky we got there early. We drive to the start of the walks and do the Cathedral Gorge, Piccaninny Creek Lookout and wander around the domes getting a close up view of the remarkable landscape. It has really started warming up and our thermometer says 35 degrees and although the walks were not very difficult we are both feeling the heat and after morning tea were glad to get into the air conditioning of the car. It is a 2 hour drive back out to the bitumen highway and we decide to drive the 150km to Doon Doon Roadhouse, about 100km south of Kununurra for the night. It is pretty basic and close to the highway but grassy sites and hot showers.

Gorges, Chasms a Camp oven Roast lamb and a starry starry night!!

Al getting the camp fire ready for the camp oven

Sunset view from Kungkalahayi Lookout( try saying that after a couple of red wines)

Al in Echidna Chasm

Mini Palms Gorge

At the end of Mini Palms gorge track

Day 119

We are up early and there are 2 walks to do at this northern end of the park so head about 16km, again on fairly good gravel road to Mini Palms Gorge. It is a 5km walk and the colours are magnificent in the early morning light. The banded sandstone cliffs are quite unique and the closer you get the more incredible they are with the polished stones embedded into the walls and washed there millions of years ago. We are back for morning tea and drive to Echidna Chasm which is a shorter walk but as beautiful as any chasm we have ever seen. It is most spectacular when the midday sun can shine down to the chasm floor but we enjoy it nonetheless at 10am and hope our photos do it justice. A short drive back to the visitor centre for some info on where to go tomorrow and back to camp for a relaxing arvo and as we are having our first camp oven dinner tonight we get things ready and although it has been a long time since we created this sort of meal we roast a chunk of lamb and some veges to perfection!!

Bungle Bungle National Park

Purnulu National Park( Bungle Bungle) northern end

Another stunning wildflower

Day 118
We pack up and after shopping we head south to Bungle Bungles. It is a 3 and half hour drive on bitumen then not sure what the road in to Nat park is like as it can take up to 3 hours. We fuel up at Turkey Creek which is a roadhouse with campground and accom. as well as an aboriginal community nearby. This is also where flights to the national park leave from and as caravans are not allowed in to the park people either leave their vans and drive in for a day or camp a night or two. We encounter a bit of traffic both oncoming and heading in the same direction but the road is generally much better than we had expected and it only takes 1 and half hours. We check in at the visitor centre and drive a further 7km north to Kurrajong campground. We are booked for a couple nights but will stay another if we need to. Campground is basic with only toilets no showers or power but we find a nice spot next to a fire place and wood has been supplied which is nice. The evening is quite mild and we enjoy being back in the bush.

Catfish galore...meow!!

You win Al

Wendy Lucy and Nick on the Barby boat

Day 117

Alan drops the car off and we ride our bikes to Wendy and Nicks CP where we get the Barby boat about 11am for 4 hours. We have enough food to feed a small army and Captain Al takes the helm. The boat does not go very fast but we have time to journey from the Diversion Dam to Elephant Rock a distance of about 10km. We have a lovely barbq lunch while we drift slowly downstream and Al decides to try out his new fishing rod (his other one is too long!!...mmmm) Anyway, he has much success, actually we all have a turn at pulling in catfish of various sizes which must be in abundance as they seem to just jump on to the line not even taking the bait. We are really hoping for something a little better eating and they almost meow as we take the hooks out and throw them back so will have to wait till another day for a better catch. Nick ventures in for a swim but I think it is the first time this trip I have declined the opportunity for a dip. The catfish and possible freshwater crocs don’t excite me although Nick says the water is lovely. We arrive back in time to get ready for the Kununurra Tavern and due to the time diff. it starts quite early. By the time we pick up vehicles and get to the pub tho the game is in full swing and there is a 2 hour wait for meals!!! We decide to go back to our camps for meals and when we get back the Nepalese Ghurkas are in party mode and putting on a bit of a show with some dancing and music. It was great to watch and afterwards we have a chat to some of them and find out they are here in WA from their base in Singapore for some exercises and this is their last night. Oh..... unless any one doesn’t know.......QLD won State of Origin series!!!!!!!!!

Real coffee and cake at the Pumphouse cafe

The Pumphouse cafe Kununurra

Day 116

Dusted off and hosed down the very dirty bikes and rode to the town centre and visited Wendy and Nick at their CP. Went to the visitor centre and made plans for the next few days. We are going to hire a barbq boat with Wendy and Nick tomorrow as both cars are being serviced and then we will head down to Bungle Bungle Nat. Park on Thursday. It’s state of Origin 2 tomorrow night so we find a hotel in town where it will be televised live. We have found a lovely cafe /restaurant near our camp right on the river called the Pumphouse. It is a tin shed being used as a cafe and still has the big pumps inside which give it an authentic and very unusual decor. The coffee and cake and views of the Ord river are exceptional too.

from beautiful Emma Gorge to ...Civilisation and Kununurra

Tourquoise pool in Emma Gorge

The eastern end of the Gibb River Road

Emma Gorge pool was verrrry cold!!

Weathered rock patterns

Day 115
We were packed up early and had arranged to meet Wendy and Nick at Emma Gorge and do the walk there before driving to Wyndham. Had a coffee with W and N and as they had done the gorge yesterday, we arranged to see them in Kununurra Tues or Wed. The gorge walk was lovely and the pool at the end was stunning with ferns growing out of the towering gorge walls as the waterfall tumbled in to the pool, however it was the coldest by far of all the waterholes of the past few weeks that we have swum in and Alan decided that he would sit this one out. It was a relatively short and easy walk of 1 and half hours but as it was warming up we were glad to get back to the car. We were surprised though at the number of older people who were just starting the walk after 9am who were really struggling to make it up to the gorge in the heat. We drove to the main Northern Highway ending our trip on the Gibb River Road and onto Bitumin!! We have had a fabulous time on this road and seen some lovely scenery and would recommend it to anyone travelling this part of the country.We arrived in Wyndham and I realised that there was not much that this town had to excite me besides a great sunset lookout so we made the decision to head to Kununurra. Booked in to The Lake Kununurra CP and spent the afternoon catching up on the many emails, phone calls and this Blog. Apologies to all for the delay in updates but we have been out of touch with the WORLD for a couple of weeks. No phones, internet, radio or TV so Alan is reading the Weekend newspaper from front to back. We are booked in here for 3 nights as we have to get the car serviced Wednesday and will decide our plans over the next day or so.

Our little secret...ssshhhhhhh..........

One of the many beautiful wildflowers on our walk

Chamberlaine Gorge

"We have these springs all to ourselves....no wonder we are happy!

Champagne Springs Gorge

Champagne Springs

Day 114
We start today’s walk to Champagne Springs and although not the dramatic typical gorge walk we have become used to it was spectacular and the swim at the end was a series of small waterfalls in a large open gorge where we enjoyed yet another swim. It was a long hot walk back to the car and with a total of 9.6km we were glad we had started early in the day. We had lunch at the town cafe before heading back to Zebedee Springs about 2pm........ Now those of you who are on the ball will realise that I had said earlier that the springs are only open to the public between 6 and 12md but I am going to let you in on a little secret......but you must promise not to tell!!!!! We found out that if you are very discreet and wait till after the tour buses have visited the springs then there is no one there at about 2pm!!!! J We had the most wonderful time just relaxing with no one around!!!! JJ We had to vacate when our fingers started shrivelling up but was worth all the crinkly skin. SSSSHHHHHHH.............. We took a little drive to a couple of other gorges but failing light forced us back to our lovely little camp and wonderful camp fire to end 3 incredible days and nights at this delightful resort. We arrived back to the sight of a lovely little freshwater croc on the bank across from us.....just in case we were contemplating a little dip!!

More gorgeous gorges and a real ranch barbq

El Questro

Wading through the very deep water

Mac Micking pool at the end of El Questro Gorge

At Brokeback ........sorry Saddleback mtn. lookout

Day 113

We drove to Saddleback mountain (Al was worried about gay cowboys but I reassured him that was Brokeback mtn.) It was a steep and very narrow rocky 4wd track up to a lovely lookout with 360 degree views of the area. We headed down to Zebedee Springs and were very disappointed to find the car park full and were even more disappointed to find the series of thermal pools full of people. Apparently the springs are only open to the general public between 6am and 12md so we think we will come back early tomorrow. We decide to do El Questro Gorge track and our disappointment of Zebedee disappears as we walk up a most magnificent gorge. It becomes a little difficult halfway up requiring us to take off boots and hold anything not waterproof above our heads to get through the water to reach the boulder climb ahead. The pool at the top was so worth the effort and the swim in the clear warm water was a lovely way to relax before the decent. We met Wendy and Nick for a drink before the Barbq and they told us of their traumatic arvo requiring 2 new tyres on their vehicle at a cost of over $900!! Repairs are not cheap here!! We enjoy the lovely Barbq dinner with barra,lamb,beef cooked to perfection and a couple of Red wines and the repair traumas were put to the back of their minds

Al and his fishing prowess at El Questro

Al trying his hand at catching a big barra for dinner

Our lovely secluded camp site "Peewee"

Moonshine Gorge

The Pentecost River with Cockburn Ranges in the background

Day 112
We are heading for El Questro not knowing whether we will stay there or not but as we drive to the Pentecost River Crossing and look up at the magnificent Cockburn Ranges we think this will be a lovely area to explore. Al suggests I get out and walk the river to see how deep it is as it is apparently tidal and you need to check depths before driving through??!! but........ I have done my homework and this river is teeming with large salty’s so I decline gracefully..........We of course make it through no probs and head further east to El Questro. It is a 1 million acre part working and part wilderness park and on arrival looks a little like a mid western U.S.A. cattle ranch with white painted fences and a small “Township” consisting of a bar/shop/restaurant and a few accom. Buildings as well as a very lovely grassy and shady campground by the Pentecost River. We are offered a private camp spot at no extra cost ($16 pp per night) and we find out later that these spots are in big demand and people usually have to wait at the gate each morning for a private site so we are very lucky to be in the right place at the right time. Sites are named after bird varieties and our site is Peewee....mmm??? We are only 2km from township and the most beautiful shady spot right on the river and so private that you can’t see or hear much from anywhere. Unfortunately you can’t swim in the river here because of the crocs but we are happy to sit and take in the peaceful surrounds .There are several gorge walks and a few 4wd tracks here so we have decided to stay 3 nights. We decide on a walk to Moonshine Gorge which takes about 2 hours with a rewarding swim at the end of the gorge. On our way back through the township we recognise a vehicle and are not surprised to see Wendy and Nick wandering across the lawn. They have left their van and Lucy (the dog) back in Kununurra and are staying at the exclusive Emma Gorge Resort nearby for 3 nights R and R. We invite them back for happy hour at our camp and arrange to meet them at the El Questro Sat. Night Barbq tomorrow. Al decides to throw the line in and see if he can catch us some dinner...as the lure sailed over our heads in a very experienced looking cast I looked up to the tree above and casually asked “Darling do the barramundi grow in the trees out here?” as I set about making tuna pasta .......

Back on the Gibb

Cockburn Ranges

Ellenbrae Station

Alan driving through the King Edward River

Day 111

We are not sure how far we will go today but will stop at Drysdale River Station for fuel and decide whether we will stay there or get back on the Gibb River Road. We get there about 10am and think it was a bit early to stop as there is not much else to do here. Back on the GRR and we stop in at a station called Ellenbrae which advertised fresh scones so we decide to test them out. True to their word and with a lovely friendly welcome and a lovely grassy shady area to eat we enjoy lunch at this little oasis. They also offer camping but we are going to keep going to Home Valley Station. We arrive there mid afternoon after a fairly good road having been graded not so long ago. HV8 as it is known boasts a lovely grassy campground and a large restaurant and bar as well as swimming pool, so very civilised. They have quite a few activities aiming mainly at the city holiday makers and they also have tours to film sites for the Australia Movie. We are only going to stay here 1 night and enjoy a lovely Barramundi meal at the Restaurant as our fresh food is running low. We do feel a bit weird getting dressed up for a meal though but enjoy not having to prepare dinner!!

Kalumburu...diesel $2.60/Litre!!

Kalumburu Mission Museum

The Community of Kalumburu

McGowans Island

Day 110

We decide to head up to Kalumburu today which is about 110km on what we hope is a little better road than yesterday. Another early start and the trip takes us about 2 hours. Kalumburu is an Aboriginal Community and a great fishing spot and we arrive in time to get the last part of a guided tour of the Mission which has a lot of history and very well told by a very passionate catholic priest who has collected much memorabilia and lovingly restored buildings to show the past history of the area. We drive up to Honeymoon Bay for a picnic lunch and after getting bogged in the sand and luckily letting enough air out of the tyres to get unbogged it’s a quick sandwich gobbled down as there are crocs in abundance around here and we don’t fancy a night on the beach! Next stop was at McGowan’s Island camp ground and it is hard to believe that you can’t swim in this most beautiful bay. Apparently if the crocs don’t get you, the sharks will.......supposed to be beaut fishing around these parts though. We need some fuel to get back and if anyone thinks it costs a lot for fuel at home then how does $2.60 per litre of diesel and Al found out it was cheap compared to last year at $3.20!!Al sheepishly asked if they minded if he only bought 10 litres....the lady was very understanding!! Anyway we drove the 2 hours back to our little haven of King Edward River and another refreshing swim.